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I am often asked, "Where is the best place to eat in Alsace?"
(It's not surprising people ask this of me, for after all, I am
the Alsatian Gourmet, the man whose hair stands on end at the
mere thought of bad food; but be reassured that I quickly run
my hands over it to smooth it back in place). Now I must say I
find this question particularly annoying. How could I possibly
single out just one restaurant from our tremendous range of culinary
talents? Even if I did one day decide, out of sheer vanity, to
answer this question, we would hear ten, twenty, even fifty voices
raised in contradiction, naming a different restaurant.
However, there is a different question you can ask me which I
am able to answer straight out without hesitation: "Where can
I get the best value for my money in Alsace?"
That is a very good question indeed. Yes, loyal readers of the
Alsatian Gourmet on-line, who strain your eyes contemplating your
computer screens, your arthritic fingers curled up over your sweaty
keyboard, I am about to make you happy for the rest of your days.
Let us all rejoice!
This miracle comes to us from Sélestat, the Humanist city in the
center of Alsace. And it is Jean Frédéric Edel, former student
of the French haute cuisine maestro, Jean Delaveyene, who performs
this feat every day. He proposes a set menu overflowing with talent
for the amazing price of 150 FF (served at lunch and dinner and
different every week).
The day I went there, the set menu included the following dishes:
- Oxtail pâté served with tangy sauerkraut seasoned with caraway,
spiced vinegar and cream of celery (the best I've ever tasted)
- Pikeperch steak, topped with fried leek flowing like ocean flora,
boulangère potatoes and marine sauce (exquisite as well as pleasing
to the eye)
- Fresh strawberry sauce and sorbet chilled in Alsatian sparkling
wine (a creation worthy of a great culinary artist)
- Mignardises cookies served with the coffee. A thin almond biscuit
broken by the Maître d'Hôtel before your very eyes just as a sculptor
would destroy his work out of rage, its meaning being lost for
all time.
Everything is served in style and sophistication on hand-painted
plates made by the Strasbourg craftsman, Bernard Riff. These plates
serve as frames to bring out the culinary compositions of Jean
Frédéric. All of the plates are made by hand and are one of a
kind. (photo of a plate)
The wine served with the meal was a 1994 Gewurztraminer, sweet
with a hint of licorice, created by Cécile Bernard, a master wine
grower of Châtenois who makes wine with the love and care with
which a mother rocks her children... children of rare beauty.
As you can see, the Alsatian Gourmet is astounded by such high
quality and refinery for this near nominal fee.
Jean Frédéric Edel has ruled over Sélestat since 1983 (in 1986
the Michelin Guide gave him one meager star). Today, he represents
the best value in Alsace and none is aware of it. In the name
of Lucullus, the Prince of Gourmets, I beseech you: run, fly,
stampede to Jean Frédéric's without delay for he holds one of
the grains of truth scattered on the path to happiness.
Jean Frédéric Edel
7, rue des Serruriers
67600 Sélestat
Tél : 0388 928 655
Fax : 0388 928 726
Closed on Sunday evenings, Tuesday evenings and Wednesdays (all
day)
And if you try this restaurant do not forget to e-mail the "gourmet alsacien"...
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