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LA COURONNE D'OR
A YOUNG WINEMAKER, AN HISTORIC WINE REGION.
WESTHOFFEN
by RUTH GARDNER-LOEW
The oldest written evidence of wine making in Alsace dates around 590 A.D.and mentions a farm located in Marlenheim.- Kircheim. These writings suggest that Alsatian wine making began in this area, mythically known as the Couronne D'Or. Situated Northwest of the Route du Vin, the Couronne D'Or offers real gems for wine lovers looking for that undiscovered
treasure.
Etienne Loew, a 25 year old wine maker and oenologist, is one of those special finds. I discovered him when I went to CIVA (the official wine promoting entity for Alsatian wine) to learn more about the local wines. The fact that his family name is the same as my husband's was also intriguing. Etienne was teaching wine classes, and as I discovered, comes from a family of wine makers that goes back to the 18th century.
After obtaining his degree in oenology in 1996, Etienne took over the Domaine Loew vineyards. He says that his objective is clear: "To produce fine wines whose distinct qualities come from the earth in which they're grown." For him, a quality product has to incorporate respect for the vines and the land, respect for himself and for the people who'll finally drink
his wines.
As he puts it, "Respect for the land means you have to know its geological composition. Then you'll know which vines are best suited for that area. Respect for the product starts from the time the vine is planted to the time it goes into the bottle, and after."
Harvesting means hand picking the grapes two or three times. This kind of selectivity is costly and time consuming, but it enables him to produce the quality he wants, and occasionally to create exceptional products like the vin de passerillage he pressed on Saint Valentine's. This precious nectar is a luxury item created with the poor man's grape, the underrated Sylvaner.
In a recent tasting of 1997 wines, my personal picks were:
Sylvaner Vieille Vigne, Pinot Noir and Tokay-Pinot Gris. All are worth tasting now and holding in your wine cellar for a few years.
Oenologist's tip of the month for storing wines: "Place your precious bottles that you're holding to age near the bottom of your racks close to the floor. Normally the humidity is better and the air cooler, which helps to conserve the wine better. Wines you plan to drink sooner can be stored near the top of your rack."
TASTING NOTES
ROUGE DE WESTHOFFEN - 1997. It's deep red color reminds one of the dark, clay-like soil that the wine comes from. The aroma is intense and fruity, and recalls the black cherries that Westhoffen is famous for. A delicious complement to red meats, game dishes and desserts spiced with cinnamon. This Alsatian red is a superb example of what a good wine maker can do with PINOT NOIR outside of Burgundy country.
SYLVANER - 1997. These vines are more than 60 years old and produce wines with long storage potential. Harvesting during three separate pickings allowed selection of grapes at their maximum maturity. The result is a wine with a marvelous balance between acidity and richness. A few years in the cellar promises an excellent wine. Serve with white meat dishes for the best association.
TOKAY SELECTION DE CORMIER 1997 - Very round, very rich and rare (only 800 bottles from a tight selection of grapes).Beautifully balanced wine with concentrated, dried grape aromas.
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