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THE SELTZ WINERY
in Mittelbergheim is one of the prettiest villages along the Route du Vin
by Ruth Gardner-Loew
Albert Seltz almost didn't become a winemaker. At 18, he wanted to be a mountain climbing guide. If he had become one, thirteen generations of father-to-son tradition would have ended, and today's winelovers would not have the opportunity of discovering some of the best made, and most unique wines in Alsace.
An unhappy event obliged Albert to change his plans. His father, Pierre Seltz, became seriously ill and was unable to continue running the winery.
Albert entered the business in 1980 and spent the next five years learning the ins and outs of the "Seltz" house. Along the way, he discovered what he wanted to express in his wines and which style he wanted to give them. "It took me a long time," he says, "But I'm patient and I'm stubborn. Now, at 35, I know exactly what kind of wine I want to make, and I have lots of fun doing it."
One might expect fruity, exuberant and comprehensible -- qualities found in some of the best Alsatian white wines -- to be present in the Seltz style. "Absolutely not," he says. "I want to make another type of wine, one that has nothing to do with what's typical in the region." He adds that the winery's style has not changed since he took over, it's simply become more refined.
Albert Seltz has two main goals for his business; continue the tradition of fine wine making established by his ancestors and make his personal mark. It's not easy to make your mark in a business that's heavily regulated, where the competition is rude, and where the variety of choice is intimidating. Albert's idea is as much against the grain of popular thinking in Alsace as it is interesting: Take the poor man's wine, Sylvaner in this region, give it the attention and care it deserves, and create a product worthy of the great whites produced elsewhere in France.
As often happens, one good idea leads to another. First, Seltz chose Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne and Haut Brion as standards of excellence to emulate. Then he decided to use Auxerrois, another "poor man's wine," to make products that express some of the qualities of Corton Charlemagne. His conclusion: "I think we're able to restitute something equally interesting with our white wines in Alsace. It takes time. Maybe in ten years, I'll have what I want."
Time will tell. If this 14th generation winemaker wins his bet, he'll become what he wants; someone to reckon with where Sylvaner is concerned. Wine lovers will win too, because we'll have the pleasure of drinking these fine wines. I've tasted them in the making, and I think they're worth following and waiting for.
COMMENTS: During a recent tasting, all the wines were structured on "finesse." Nothing exuberant or shocking. From start to finish, they were well balanced and "fine." This is the house style.
Personal best choices: Auxerrois Barrique 1996, Riesling Réserve 1995, Sylvaner 1996, Pinot Noir Réserve 1996
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